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Soho’s Suvlaki serves up Greek street food with a Michelin starred twist

PUBLISHED: 18:21 07 May 2016 | UPDATED: 18:38 07 May 2016

Suvlaki in Soho

Suvlaki in Soho

Archant

Greek street food has received a Michelin-star makeover at Suvlaki in Soho.

Suvlaki in Soho Suvlaki in Soho

Launched last summer the buzzing 34-seat Athenian grill house in Bateman Street serves up authentic, high-end fast food that is above all delectable.

The smell of chargrilling wafting out of its open kitchen tweaks your taste buds, before the ouzo snacks arrive – just one of Michelin starred chef Alfred Prasad’s additions to the menu which was originally conceived by celebrity Greek chef Elias Mamalakis.

We tried the ‘cheese nibble’, with a smoky grilled and meaty mastelo cheese wrapped in pita and served next to a sweet fig marmalade at £3.50, and a cooling tzatziki dip at £2.50, which can be paired with a shot of ouzo for £2.

For a main course, we went for the Suvlaki exuberance, priced at £34 for two, which means you can try a little bit of nearly everything on the menu.

Monkfish and potato salad at Suvlaki in Soho Monkfish and potato salad at Suvlaki in Soho

There are skewers and wraps with the likes of pork, pulled pork, chicken, and wild boar sausage, side dishes like a rich baked feta and a Greek salad, and tender homemade feta-stuffed burgers.

Chios island Mastelo cheese, which I’ve since tried to unsuccessfully source for my own kitchen because I liked it so much, makes an appearance in the vegetarian Suvlaki skewers and wraps.

They also came with sweet and succulent peppers that were so well cooked they were devoured by my son, who can’t usually stand them.

Everything from the homemade burgers to the pork has a delicious chargrilled flavour.

This also applied to the Suvlaki signature herb monkfish, at £13, marinated in dill and mint, which came with a dry and mellow cold lentil salad.

On my way I’d read about the caramelised fig and buffalo milk ice cream for desert, a very reasonable £4, which certainly lived up to my expectations, while the chocolate biscuit cake was paired perfectly with the bitterness of the homemade coffee ice cream, priced at £5.

The long, narrow diner is really cosy and clever use of a ceiling mirror gives the impression of Greek ionic columns reaching up to the sky, while its blue and turquoise theme gives the feeling you are in a Greek taverna in the summer time.

Suvlaki is open from lunch until dinner for take away, home delivery and late-night bites until midnight at the weekends.

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